Reglisse Noire is the first perfume from the house “1000 Flowers”. I had heard a lot about this fragrance due to my love for licorice, but ignored it due to EdT snobbery. I felt that if it wasn’t an EdP, it was not worth my time. I eventually gave in to my curiosity and ordered a sample.
The description (stolen from Fragrantica) is as follows:
Réglisse Noire is the scent of black licorice candy, as its French name says itself. This is the first fragrance from the Canadian niche house 1000 Flowers founded by the perfumer Jessica Buchanan in order to explore the creation of perfume driven by the ideal of beauty in balance. The formula was created in Grasse France, where Jessica learned the art of perfumery working at Mane and Robertet.
Réglisse Noire opens with notes of white pepper, ozone, mint and shiso leaf. The heart is composed of black licorice and star anise and ginger and cocoa. The base consists of musk, patchouli, vanilla and vetiver.
After dabbing my sample, this opens with a beautiful licorice note that is watery and not too thick. Closer to skin I can smell a medicinal version of this, but not medicinal enough to put me off. It then starts wafting a very realistic scent that reminds me of my favourite Dutch candy called “Taai-taai”, which uses similar spices to the famous Speculaas and ontbijtkoek (“Breakfast cake, gently spiced sticky-crusted cake pictured at the bottom).
The lovely licorice leaves just when it starts to get a bit too much, which is nice as it makes me appreciate it more. I smell a white floral, and the spot on my inner elbow has a dance of flowers with licorice. It’s a very light white floral, perfect for summer and really blended so well that a white-floral hater like myself can love it. It is interesting to note that there are no white florals detected by anyone else, but I do smell something flowery that is soft and pleasant, but still present. Just like with Cartier’s Baiser Vole, I smell something green here too. There is nothing “Noire” here, except for the licorice, which is the most realistic and inoffensive I’ve ever smelt in a scent. It is scents like this that remind me why I love that note so much.
Someone described this as a “shy gourmand” on Fragrantica, and I have to agree. It is a gorgeous scent, and although it does smell like my favourite treats, the sheer florals seem to keep it in balance. I feel very pretty in this, and would go so far as to say that I would probably wear this when I’m feeling down – just for its effects. It dries down to a cool licorice/anise that seems to have mint without putting me off (well done; I hate mint!). I’m really really impressed by this fragrance, and as I so often do with fragrances I love – I shall stop describing it now, as I feel inadequate.
Bottom Line: This is a love for me, as it truly is a well-balanced beauty. I shall definitely be putting a full bottle on my wish list. It makes me feel so inadequate with my lousy writing 🙁 Longevity isn’t great, but it is an EdT so I cannot expect Amouage-like longevity.